So the two offending planks have now been removed (with a hot air gun as suggested by Chris). No chances are being taken second time around, with each mould removed one at a time and slots cut to receive two ribbands running the length of each side of the hull. One ribband to define a fair curve for the top of the sheer plank and one to pick up the lap between this and the lower plank.
Like so many new jobs one learns from experience, and if we were starting off again I would follow the method recently described very well by Chris Perkins in Water Craft magazine (no. 73 Jan/Feb 09). Chris reduces all the mould sizes by the thickness of the ribbands and fits these along the course of the ‘lands’ between each plank overlap. Whether or not this would be different in thicker ply I’m not sure but with 4mm it is well advised.
The photos show we are just about ready to fit the final planks. We have also fitted false decks at both bow and stern to further ensure we end up with some symmetry about the hull.
3 comments:
Jonathan, thanks for your kind words and plug, have yet to see the mag myself as it's waiting on the doormat when I get back North - and for being so brutally honest when things don't go according to plan. We have all been there one way or another! I wonder if you are expecting too much fairness as she comes off the moulds? In my experience they always look awfully unfair at that stage. It is truly amazing how the shape snaps back once the gunnels go in. I think there is a snap in my Scotch Mist build post that shows that aspect well. Wouldn't believe how wobbly my sheer looked at that stage!
Will the false decks stay in once you are satisfied with the shape? I would be mildly concerned at the extra weight and possibly getting in the way of the mast boxes.
Cheers
Chris
Thanks Chris, the false decks come out once the top plank is glued. Incidentally in one of your previous posts you asked me whether the new design drawings have a king plank in the permanent deck construction and the answer is yes.
Any thoughts on sailing rigs? This is evidence of me being more optimistic that this project will eventually float upright. Having experience long lead times for new sails at the start of the season, I thought I would get ahead of the game and make a few enquiries. The most recent drawings show either a Balanced Lug or Gunter. I have received one suggestion of a lug main (with reefs of course), but with a Gunter mizzen. I have not ventured into traditional rigs thus far in my other sailing activities so more research and leaning I guess.
Finally, as for brutal honesty, I guess the ups and downs are what blogs are all about.
Jonathan, I am afraid I am the last person to advise on rigs, I used the lug on main and mizzen for Scotch Mist on the basis that they would be low aspect and less likely to get me very wet!They also look pretty and fitted my mental image of what I was trying to create. Sad to say I have never had the nerve to sail her, when I finally hoisted the cloth for the first time I was overwhelmed by how much there was and how narrow the boat was. All I can suggest is a good read of Tod Bradshaw's book ' Canoe Rig, the essence and the art'. It will certainly inform your internal debate and pass many happy hours waiting on the warmer weather. You could ask the question on the Oughtred forum or the HBBR forum. The Sailing canoe forum is also an obvious port of call. A dry suite might also be a good investment ;-)
Cheers
Chris
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